Cotton
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Uses

- Major uses of cotton fibres
- Major uses of cottonseeds

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Products derived from cotton fibre

Uses

Source : UNCTAD secretariat, drawing upon "Etude relative au mécanisme de formation des prix de cession du coton-graine et des intrants agricoles au Bénin" (Anna Croles-Rees and Bio Goura Soulé Lares, 2001)

Major uses of cotton fibres

Source : Adapted from: "Cotton Facts", International Cotton Advisory Committee (ICAC), 2003

The major end uses for cotton fibre include wearing apparel, home furnishings, and other industrial uses (such as medical supplies). The cotton fibre is made primarily into yearns and threads for use in the textile and apparel sectors (wearing apparel would account for approximately 60% of cotton consumption). Cotton is also used to make home furnishings, such as draperies (eventually the third major end use) or professional garments (about 5% of cotton fibre demand).

Besides traditional uses and as a result of different finishing processes that have been applied to the cotton fibre, cotton is made into specialty materials suitable for a great variety of uses. Cotton fabrics with specialty applications include, for example, fire-proof (flame resistant) apparel, which is suitable for professional uses and provides effective protection against potential risks associated with high temperature and particularly flashover. Flame resistant cotton fabrics are treated with chemicals. Without chemical treatment, cotton would burn up releasing very strong heat, just like the major part of synthetic fibres, which melt when they are exposed to high temperatures.

Cotton also finds specialty applications in medical and hygienic uses. Most notably, the fibre is used to manufacture hydrophile cotton (cotton wool), compress, gauze bandages, tampons or sanitary towels, and cotton swabs. In this field, the most suitable cotton variety is the species Gossypium herbaceum with short-staple thick fibres.

See, in particular: Modified Fibers with Medical and Specialty Applications

One development that will most likely affect cotton consumption patterns is the marketing of coloured fibres tailored to the needs of the textile industry. Substantial technological advances have taken place in this area. According to the Ministry of Higher Education and Scientific Research in Burkina Faso: "... In China for example, one does not make any more dyeing. China uses transgenic cotton plants which produce yellow, white, green, or red cotton; to sum up, any customised colour grade...".

Share of selected fibres in world use, 1900 - 2001

Source : UNCTAD secretariat (Data: "Statistiche 2002 Italia E Mondo," Associazione Tessile Italiana, October 2003)

Cotton demand is strongly influenced by comparative prices vis-à-vis man-made fibres (artificial and synthetic fibres). Artificial fibres (like viscose rayon and acetates) are made from organic polymers derived from natural raw materials, mainly cellulose. Synthetic fibres (including acrylics, polyamides, and polyesters) are generally derived from petrochemicals petroleum products.

From the beginning of the 20th century until the end of the second world war (WWII) cotton had accounted for 81% of world total fibre consumption. A shift occurred in the 1940s, when man-made fibres first appeared in the market (accounting for 12% of the world's total fibre consumption over the 1940s). As from the 1960s, with a deepening of the trend since 1970, decline in cotton consumption has become more prominent. The ratio of cotton in the fibre market decreased from 75% in 1940 to 68% in 1960. In 1970 cotton accounted for 57% of textile fibres. Since the early 2000s, cotton has accounted for roughly 38% of world fibre consumption. By contrast, the share of synthetic fibres rose to 57% in 2001, up from 5% in 1960.

For further information concerning weaving, refer to the following website: Weaving, how does it go? : Tenthorey S.With.

Uses of cottonseeds

The seed coat (hull)

The seed coat (hull)

Source : Adapted from "Cotton Facts", ICAC (2003)

Cottonseed oil is mechanically extracted from the cottonseed by means of screw or press. Cottonseed oil ranked fifth in production and consumption volume among vegetable oils over the period 1961-2003, accounting for approximately 8% of the world's vegetable oil consumption (close to the ratio of groundnut oil). In many countries of francophone Africa (notably, Mali, Chad, Burkina Faso, Togo, Ivory Coast, and Cameroon), cottonseed oil (used as oil or margarine) provides the main source of fat and oil supply and has several food applications. Cottonseed oil is also further refined for use in soaps and cosmetics.

Some figures about the cottonseed oil market

Cottonseed oil production
The five largest producers of cottonseed oil over the period 1995-2003 (four are developing countries and countries in transition) accounted for a combined 70% of global output. They relative shares were:
- China: 27%,
- United States: 12%
- Former Soviet Union: 10% (of which: Turkmenistan: 10% and Uzbekistan: 72%, Tajikistan: 8%, Kazakhstan: 6%),
- India: 11%,
- Pakistan: 9%.

Cottonseed oil trade
Trade in cottonseed oil is more concentrated than production, with five countries (the United States, Brazil, Argentina, the former Soviet Union, and Syria) accounting for more than 86% of world exports. Although West African countries are major cotton producers, none of them ranks among the ten largest producers of cottonseed oil. Over the period 1990-2002, West African countries accounted as a whole for just 3% of world cottonseed oil production, and approximately 1.3% of world exports.

Cottonseeds hulls have also been used to provide roughage in animal feed. The remains of the seed after the oil has been extracted can also be rendered as flours for livestock feed. Whereas these usages refer to animal consumption, research is being conducted to develop new uses for cottonseed derivatives in human diet. Major achievements in this direction include:
- Development of gossypol extraction techniques (gossypol is a toxic compound found in the cotton plant, mainly concentrated in the cottonseed);
- Development of "glandless" cotton varieties (where the plant is genetically bred to produce gossypol-free cottonseed)

Cottonseed meal

After the oil has been extracted from the cottonseed, the residue (i.e. cottonseed meal) is high in proteins (about 40%). It is usually marketed for animal feed, although it can have other usages (see the figure below).

Source: Adapted from: "Cotton Facts", ICAC (2003)